Information ≠ beauty. There won't be a CSS here... at least for some time.
Otherwise, this web can be useful for everyone who is plannig a trip to malaysian East Coast. Information and photos. That's all you can find here.
Why? Answer is simple: "Because I wanted to do it!" (always the same answer?).
I wanted to see the east of peninsular Malaysia. We were told it's much more beautiful then west coast. Less traffic, fishing villages, indigenous malay people, nice beaches with white sand and crystal clear water. Not all of it is true. But now I can say: "I know peninsular Malaysia (and I know nothing about East Malaysia (Borneo))".
01.06.2007 — landing (Changi Airport, Singapore)
01.06.2007 - 09.06.2007 — relax and bore in Singapore
09.06.2007 — day #1: finally leaving!; Singapore » middle of nowhere (40km to Mersing) [113km]
10.06.2007 — day #2: ..Jemaluang » Mersing » Nenasi [153km]
11.06.2007 — day #3: Nenasi » Kuantan [96km]
12.06.2007 — day #4: Kuantan "day-off"; afternoon ride: Kuantan » Kemaman [65km]
13.06.2007 — day #5: Kemaman » Kuala Terengganu [167km]
14.06.2007 — day #6: Kuala Terengganu "day-off"; afternoon ride: K. Terengganu » Penarik [55km]
15.06.2007 — day #7: THE END; Penarik » Kota Bharu [120km]
16.06.2007 — day #8: Kota Bharu and to the north (Thai border); K. Bharu » Pantai Seri Tujuh (Beach of Seven Lagoons) [40km]
17.06.2007 — day #9: Kota Bharu and around; this is the beginning of the end; Pantai Seri Tujuh » Pasir Puteh [120km]
18.06.2007 — day #10: Tasik Kenyir, lovely place; Pasir Puteh » Tasik Kenyir [120km]
19.06.2007 — day #11: Tasik Kenyir » Paka [147km]
20.06.2007 — day #12: Paka » Kuantan [122km]
21.06.2007 — day #13: overcome yourself; Kuantan » Mersing [200km]
22.06.2007 — day #14: back "home"; Mersing » Singapore [152km]
Food (nasi lemak, goreng pisang*, kek pisang** etc.), beaches (disappointment), flat roads (Johor is hilly; thanks for it), nature and wildlife (forests and dead animals on the roads), people ("Hello! Hello!"), cycling many kilometers (1670km in 2 weeks), experience ("Leave me alone!").
How was it? Do the same and you will know. Sametimes it was hard, sometimes it wasn't. But generally more disappointment than satisfaction. The beaches weren't so nice as I expected, everything was uncared-for, beach (or other) resorts were abandoned. Tasik Kenyir was on the other hand perfect. Cities are not so big, people are friendly, traffic is bustling. Less cars than west coast? Not really. Not at all. How was it? It was a pleasant 14 days ride. It was good. I like to ride my bike. I like to do insane things. I like extremes. It was good. Even if it would be the hardest time in my life (India?) it would still be good. Carpe diem.
I started on Saturday (12.00) in Singapore, went directly do Johor Bahru and after only stop in Cycle Today bikeshop I took road no.3 and rode my bike straight. JB is huge. It was never_ending. After 1 hour I reached Ulu Tiram. It can be considered as the end of JB. At least for me. After another hour Kota Tinggi and time for a break (I had to fasten my backpack on the rack, shoulders hurt). Dinner (rice, of course). Let's go on. Many more kms to go. Mersing still 95km. I cannot make it today. After another few hours, almost at 7pm, I stopped. Enough. I washed myself in a stream, tore my shorts (indian) while jumping over it and found a suitable place to overnight. My first night alone. In wild malay nature. On the small hill, next to the road. I watched lightning behind the hills and hoped for no rain tonight. Stars were impressive. Summary:113km, Singapore » a place 40km from Mersing; budget: RM2.50 (rice)
I got up and started again. After 2 hours Mersing. Time for a break. Ferry terminal is the right place. Few people waiting for departure to Tioman island. Sea is.. disgusting. I ate my food, wrote something to the diary and relaxed. I had a short chat with a guy working in Singapore (he headed to Tioman but came here by bike), he gave me some useful information ("Hills are over" was bad information) and I went on. Endau (border Johor/Pahang), K. Rompin (I tried to visit "Rompin Beach Resort" but I didn't find it) and further. Where will I finish today? Pekan was still 85km from K. Rompin, too far. Nenasi will be ok. After few kms I had a short swim in sea (Summerset Resort) and then I reached Nenasi. Small mostly fishing village. Quite nice beach. Quiet. Today I realized I'm not a machine anymore (as we used to be in Cambodia). Hard day. But harder will come. Food, 100PLUS and relax. My "camp" was built under the trees on the beach today. Summary:153km, middle of nowhere » Nenasi; budget: RM6 (watermelon, bananas), RM5.50 (pastry), RM3 (2x 100PLUS can)
"I'll get to Kuantan today, it's only 90km." This was my morning thought. I don't know when did I start, but today was f*ing hot day. I nearly died before I reached Pekan. Real lack of energy. It was hard for me even to eat. Hard to bite, hard to swallow (I still had that pastry from yesterday). What could I do? After 1,5l cool 100PLUS I had to continue. 40km to go. Heat is killing me. Road is good but they are extending it. Trucks with sand, dust, loads of cars, excavators. This sucked. Even harder time then in the morning. I had to stop every few minutes. Drinking plenty of water but still no energy. I got to Kuantan very slowly but I was really happy to be there. Drinks, food and relax. I went directly to Esplanade, sat in one of many buffets and half of my journey up was over. Staff was really friendly, they gave me nasi lemak, drinks (everything free) and I spent all night with them. It was raining, I had to wait. I slept next to Kuantan Municipal Council building. Dry place. Today was the toughest day. Summary:96km, Nenasi » Kuantan; budget: RM2.90 (100PLUS), RM2.50 (Coke), RM4 (rice)
Day-off. I rested in the morning and then went to the city. I had to buy new shorts, plasters (I hope I won't use it) and I bought glucose as well (after yesterday's experience). Short tip to Teluk Chempedak beach, few minutes "connected" (Vistana hotel free wifi) and back to Simple (buffet). I said only "good bye" and left. Kuala Terengganu is 210km, I have to beat small part today and I can get there tomorrow. Kuantan, small hill, villages, cars and me (cycling very fast). I got to Kemaman, bought a watermelon and finished in Kuala Kemamaman (busy fishing village) watching heavy sea. Tired? Not today. Every day I see many "flat" (or only dead) animals od the road. Today big lizard killed on the bridge by furious traffic. Half of my watermelon as a dinner, canvas under a palmtree, mosquito net and good night. Summary:65km, Kuantan » Kuala Kemaman; budget: RM9.90 (shorts), RM9.50 (glucose), RM2.50 (plasters), RM4 (food?), RM4 (watermelon)
Good morning. Go! No stopping. Kijal, Kemasik (I saw a beach but I decided to visit it during the way back), Kertih, Paka. There is a pretty big PETRONAS refinery in front of Paka. Not nice. And again need for wider road. Bleh. Cycling is good today. Fast. Halfway break in Dungun, icecream, glucose and after 30 minutes resting cycling again. There is a turtle sanctuary in Rantau Abang but closed these days. Renovation in progress. I saw no turtles but I saw beach and sea. Water is quite clear but can't be compared to Ko Lipe's really crystal clear water. Beach is yellow and a bit dirty. Let's go on, there must be a better paradise waiting for me up in the north. Less then 4 hours in the seat, I'm crossing a bridge and after 167km behind me arriving to Kuala Terengganu. I looked at a beautiful white mosque (Tengku Tengah Zaharah mosque/Floating mosque) and went to the city. I tried to find the waterfront but no success. I returned to Batu Buruk beach (and park) and had a big break. I had enough. I came down dusky so I moved to near resort (Batu Buruk Beach Resort) and exploited their wifi. I moved away when karaoke started in neighbouring restaurant. Night in a "forest" on the beach. Summary:167km, Kuala Kemaman » Kuala Terengganu; budget: RM2 (nasi lemak), RM2 (icecream), RM2.80 (drinks), RM2 (goreng pisang)
Kuala Terengganu day-off. Back to the city, nasi lemak, waterfront (not bad park), post office, Tourist Information Center (probably closed) and Central Market. Cool! Real market. I like it although I don't know most of the goods you can buy here. Fruit, vegies, nuts, keropok (it's malaysian), fish and plenty of other things. Batik and other clothes in upper floor. It was a labyrinth, it was safer to leave that place. Mosques, chinatown and again (the real one) Waterfront. But not finished and mostly abandoned. I tuned up my bike and went back to the center. Icecream (big one), last rest in a park on the sea coast and "bye, Terengganu". Afternoon ride again, Kota Bharu 170km, better make it in 2 days. Furious noisy dirty afternoon trafic. Disgusting. Plus the heat. I was fucked up. No reaction to greetings from children along the road. Main road (no.3) goes directly to Kota Bahru (in goes inland), I took another road (to Merang; along the coast). It wasn't bad. The sun disappeared (thank you, clouds) and after few hours I almost reached Penarik. Beach. Long, quite nice. I'll stay here. I bought kek pisang, chocolate drink and sat in one of many shelters on the beach. It got dark soon. Kek pisang is delicious. I slept in another (wooden) shelter and high strong lamp acted as a sun all the long night. Summary:55km, K. Terengganu » Penarik; budget: RM5 (breakfast), RM3 (banana), RM30 (gifts), RM20 (post), RM5 (icecream), RM8.10 (kek pisang, chocolate drink)
"Today, no Spartan dies!" (3oo) Today I'll reach the destination! I got up and started cycling immediately. Penarik, little problems with roads (never believe to your map) and after few hours, about noon, I got to Kuala Besut (Perhentian islands ferry terminal). I saw only one couple waiting for their speedboat. But still the most "touristic" place so far. Break, lunch, kek pisang. Rest of the way to Kota Bharu I followed the traffic signs. Tok Bali (with really high bridge), Melawi (bunch of school children in white suits yelling "Hello!"), Bachok (another long uncared-for beach) and last 20km to K. Bharu. Finish is always hard. It was quite hot and after an hour, I made it. I wanted to go directly to Merdeka Square but before I got there I saw almost all of "tourist places" in the city (Central Market, two palaces, State Mosque, Islamic Museum, War Memorial and finally Merdeka Square). I was a bit disappointing (again). Trees, grass but no benches, nothing. No people at all. I ate my merited watermelon and went to the city. McDonald's was a good strategic place (centered position) to lock my bike. What is around? Shopping. Everywhere. And beyond all these malls and stalls, there is beginning friday night market. Nice. But I don't want to buy anything. After good nasi goreng (fried rice) I took my laptop and sat in a Internet cafe for 3 hours. Closing! Okejla, I go. I slept on a football field not far from the center. It started to rain, so I had to move to a shelter (on the side of the field). THE END of the journey. But I have to return... Summary:120km, Penarik » Kota Bharu; budget: RM1 (goreng pisang), RM2 (watermelon), RM3 (internet), RM3 (nasi goreng), RM4.70 (pastry)
After six days cycling was the time for the real day-off. Not really. I spent almost entire day in the city. Central market and around. I wanted to buy earrings for my (BERLITZ guidebook reads there ale plenty of silversmiths here in K. Bharu; bullshit). Many "Kedai Emas" (shop with gold etc.) but no good enough/nice/wonderful stuff. I'm sad. I ate a lot, visited few shopping malls, looked around. Nothing to do. City sucks (this city doesn't suck if you want to do shopping all the day). I'm leaving (in the afternoon). "Where will you go?" "...now that you ask, I suppose I'll head north." So did I. Thai border was only 25km to the north. Buddhist Wats started to appear along the road. Memories of Thailand were refreshed. Thai border is nothing. Duty free shop was closed. No merited beer. I rode back heading to Kota Bharu but following the coastline and visiting the beaches. Pantai Seri Tujuh (aka Beach of Seven Lagoons) was the last one (and almost the only one) today. Beach, waves, children with kites and picnickers. Dark clouds were coming closer. The rain was inevitable. I survived this rainy night in the same shelter again. Good against the sun, good against the rain. Summary:40km, Kota Bharu » Pantai Seri Tujuh (via Thai border); budget: RM12 (cashew nuts), RM10 (gift), RM2 (food), RM2 (rice), RM3.50 (apples), RM2 (goreng pisang)
Isn't it boring? I'm living through two weeks of my life again, heh. Let's go on. I'm going to finish it today.
It was still raining in the morning. Weather was not good enough to spent entire day here. Let's move away from here. Tumpat, Kota Bharu again, Pantai Cahaya Bulan (Beach of Moonlight, Beach of Passionate Love; ught, who can make love on such an ugly place?) and then back to the center and change direction to the airport and Sabak fishing village. I wanted to see a bunker from WW II but I didnt' find it. Airport was tiny and nice, Sabak was impressive. Wooden old fashioned houses, sheep, cows, hens, resting fishermen, children. I think the best original fishing village I have ever seen here. Constant wind, kites in the sky. Nice. And cloudy. When I started cycling to Pasir Puteh, I realized this is the real end. I'm going down. I'm leaving Malaysia, I'm leaving Asia. I'm looking forward to being in Europe. Afternoon city traffic was terrible again. It was only 40km to Pasir Puteh, so I made it quite easily. Dinner (rice), kek pisang and sit and think. I tried to sleep behind my bench under a palmtree. But the rain made me to move at 4am. Thanks a lot. Summary:120km, Pantai Seri Tujuh » Pasir Puteh; budget: RM1.50 (food), RM1 (pastry), RM3.50 (butter cake), RM15 (gift), RM2 (dinner), RM4.60 (700g kek pisang)
Today I'll reach Tasik Kenyir, the only place I really want to visit on the way "back down". Beginning on flat roads and in sequence more a more hills. I go the road no.3, it's not too bad. Quite quiet but although full of flat/dead/puffy cats. Lunch in Permaisuri and remaining ± 60km to go. Palm plantations everwhere. Hills everywhere. If it's hot, cycling is bad. Turn-off to Kuala Berang, no cars, more palm plantations (yes, there can be always more palm plantations around) and road up and down. Next turn-off. Tasik Kenyir 14km. Good, but I'll have to return the same way back to this "main" road tomorrow. Achjo. Quite tired I'm arriving (some hills were really deadly) to amazingly beautiful place. A lake in between hills with many islands and unbelievably quiet. This is the compensation for "nothing special" beaches. Yeah! Swimming in clear water (with good temperature!), watching peaceful landscape and listening birds. This is the best place I have seen here so far (I mean East Coast). Falling asleep with voices of nature and love songs from 80's coming to my ears from near Tasik Kenyir Resort & Spa. Summary:120km, Pasir Puteh » Tasik Kenyir; budget: RM4.70 (lunch), RM3.80 (cool drink)
I thought of staying here one more day but finally decided to leave. After a chat with one guy from Kuantan (he wants to cycle around Malaysia) and finishing the diary it was already almost 11am when I started cycling. Back to main road and futher to Kuala Berang. 40km. I was thinking all the way. I had to decide which road I'll take. Inlands directly to Dungun and then further along the coast (new unknown road but maybe only palms around and no villages and no possibility to get food and water) or first to the coast and further the same already known way (this was probably the longer way, there was no direct road to the coast, I thought I will have to go back to Marang and turn down there). But! I decided for no-palm-plantation road and I did well. I followed the traffic signs and tiny roads led me directly to the main road on the coast. This was probably the most pleasant ride. Villages with a few houses, children, cows, no cars and breeze from surrounding forests. Welcome to the main road again. Buses, trucks, motorbikes and many dead animals. I cycled (I do it all the time). Straight. Dungun with no stop and before 7pm finally Paka. Double dinner (nasi lemak and nasi goreng), rain, kek pisang, dark and good sleep. Summary:147km, Tasik Kenyir » Paka; budget: RM4.60 (drink and pastry), RM4.60 (kek pisang), RM6.50 (dinner)
I'm in a bad mood today. I have no reason but sometimes... everyone is. Today's destination: Kuantan. I cycle ("We march."). I don't greet anybody today. Last "goodbye" to South China Sea on Kemasik Beach (remember? I didn't visit this place on the way "up"). Kijal, few kms on "old no.3 road" and before noon, Cukai (or Kemaman, it's the same). I was nearly a victim of a robbery. Two bastard on a motorbike tried to steal my digital camera from my pocket while I was cycling in the town. Luckily the pocket is close and it isn't easy to take the camera out of it. Uft. Better to leave as fast as possible. I'm a bit paranoiac always when I hear a motorbike behind me. Next stop in turtle sanctuary (I saw big turtles!), then in Cherating (give me some food!) and finish in Kuantan in the afternoon. Relaxing hour "connected" (Vistana hotel again) and then directly to Simple to see my "old" friends. Drinking, sitting, resting, eating. Thanks, see you "next time". No rain tonight so I built my home in the "forest" next to the Kuantan Municipal Council building again. Half of the way "back down" is over. Summary:122km, Paka » Kuantan; budget: RM2 (nasi lemak), RM2 (roti), RM3.70 (100PLUS), RM2 (icecream), RM4.50 (postcards)
330km to Johor Bahru. Can I make it in two days? I'll try it. To be successful, I have to reach Mersing (200km from here) today. I didn't start really early and the sun was hot. I passed the "bad part" of the road to Pekan (highway construction) and continued. Firts stop in Nenasi, after 94km in 4 hours. Dead animals? Yes, more than enough. I was surprised, morning part was almost without traffic. It was perfect, I was thinking about many things and didn't watch time or road. Next part, from Nenasi to K. Rompin was a bit harder. Boring, some parts of my body started to hurt (hands) and I then you think only about "how many more km? how long?". I ate something in K. Rompin, then I ate something more (coconut buns weren't tasty) and went on. Last 60km to go. I awaited hard times. Road was flat and I didn't enjoy the cycling, it was boring and I was tired. Then came Endau, Johor, and last hilly 35km. I love the hills! You ride up, you ride down. The hills were my rescue. I got to Mersing few minutes after 7pm, happy, because I overcame myself (in Cambodia we made 197km, now it was clear 200km). I went to ferry terminal again, had nasi goreng (I took it twice, I was really hungry) and had a talk with a dutch couple. I was really exhousted. I lail on the floor and listened to rain drumming on the roof. When it stopped (actually it didn't), I moved outside to the shelter and fell asleep. I'll finish it tomorrow. Summary:200km, Kuantan » Mersing; budget: RM3.70 (100PLUS), RM4 (pastry), RM2 (oranges), RM7 (2x nasi goreng)
I saw my first sunrise this morning. I started cycling at 9.40 with feeling I have to make it today. There's no other alternative. Hills in the morning, hills in the afternoon. Kota Tinggi at 2pm, already tired. Sun showed no mercy today (at least in the morning). I had to be fast, rain tried to eat me before K. Tinggi but I escaped. Lunch! Same place as 2 weeks ago. Tasty rice and butter cake as a dessert. Uft, too much food and still 40km to go. Ulu tiram after 20km. From K. Tinggi the traffic was one long line with small gaps. Buses with black exhaust fumes were dominating. JB starts in Ulu Tiram. I knew it but I didn't remember. Last hour (with rain, of course; without rain it would be boring, right?) was ugly. Many, many cars... too many. Can I vomit? I'm heading directly to ZON (Duty Free shop), we'll need beer (and "Sparta will need sons." :). Next stop in bikeshop, next (last) in restoran. This can be my last malaysian rice... Cross the border with 23 hidden beers in all the bags I have, cross Singapore and arrive to Parc Vista. Home again. Now it's time for a beer and after 14 days cycling the final body regeneration. Thank you and thank myself. Thank Malaysia. Summary:153km, Mersing » Singapore; budget: RM8.70 (lunch), RM115.20 (24x beer can), RM3 (icecream and pears), RM3 (rice)
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kralik // kralik@kralyk.com // last update 05.07.2007 // visitors
(including visitors of websites: India, SE Asia, Australia, because it's still only one trip)
(BERLITZ guidebook reads there ale plenty of silversmiths here in K. Bharu; bullshit). Many "Kedai Emas" (shop with gold etc.) but no good enough/nice/wonderful stuff. I'm sad. I ate a lot, visited few shopping malls, looked around. Nothing to do. City sucks (this city doesn't suck if you want to do shopping all the day). I'm leaving (in the afternoon). "Where will you go?" "...now that you ask, I suppose I'll head north." So did I. Thai border was only 25km to the north. Buddhist Wats started to appear along the road. Memories of Thailand were refreshed. Thai border is nothing. Duty free shop was closed. No merited beer. I rode back heading to Kota Bharu but following the coastline and visiting the beaches. Pantai Seri Tujuh (aka Beach of Seven Lagoons) was the last one (and almost the only one) today. Beach, waves, children with kites and picnickers. Dark clouds were coming closer. The rain was inevitable. I survived this rainy night in the same shelter again. Good against the sun, good against the rain.
